Papua New Guinea

Finished reading Nicholas Shakespeare’s In Tasmania [Australia: Vintage, 2007]. Toward the end he describes an environmentalist named Bob Brown, whose first reaction to Tasmania was, “I am home.” Then he quotes the novelist James McQueen writing about preserving the Franklin River, “For me it is the epitome of all the lost forests, all the submerged lakes, all the tamed rivers, all the extinguished species. It is threatened by the same mindless beast that has eaten our past, is eating our present, and threatens to eat our future: that civil beast of mean ambitions and broken promises and hedged bets and tawdry profits.” Shakespeare says that local history says about Tasmania, “For Europeans, it [Tasmania] represents the literal end of the world: if you travel any further you are on your way home again.”

Today we were in Rabaul, Papua New Guinea. The Japanese fought off the Australians, took over the island and carved an intricate network of tunnels in the volcanic mountains here; then the island suffered intense Allied bombing. Fifty years later the place was bombed by the ash from two violent volcano eruptions. One is still spewing ash [see photos on http://gallery.me.com/herrlk].

Now, my personal notes about Rabaul and Papua New Guinea: friendly and active, in spite of the devastation of war and volcanoes. Not a lazy island. Lots of construction going on in Rabaul and Kopoko. As we drove out dusty roads by lush vegetation, folks waving and calling hello with smiles, tears came to my eyes. Why? Because we are so welcome here? Because the horror of war is mostly forgotten? Because people do not envy or judge us but live by their own beat? Because we are following in the footsteps of explorers without the hazards and dangers? Whatever, it is a privilege to be here and an intense immersion in nature, time, culture, and history.

Tasmania

New photos - from Tasmania - now up on a new gallery album:
http://gallery.me.com/herrlk/100039

Today - at sea - will arrive in Sydney early tomorrow morning. Plan to explore on foot during the day and attend the Sydney Opera performance in the evening - The Magic Flute. We are staying in port overnight this time.

Tasmania

Something magic about Tasmania. Volcano defined hills. Sharply defined islands. Sheer cliffs of solid rock. One of the world’s deepest harbors. Ships of all kinds from historic sailing ships to the Queen Victoria side by side at Hobart. Prep place for those going to Antartica. Inland, rolling hills and farms, vineyards and horses. Clear, clean air. Tasmanian devils and wombats. Put it on the list of places to revisit. [About the same population as our Congressional District (PA-16).]

Tasman Sea

notice that I gave the wrong photo address. . .. it should be http://gallery.me.com/herrlk/100017

What a trip! Have my little office set up in the Commodore Room with the same view the captain has - nothing but sea - the Tasman Sea. Swells of about 8 ft but otherwise a beautiful day. As far south as we get and about as far away from home. Still only 1/3 of way through my journey, however. Ahead tomorrow are koalas and Tasmanian devils. We get just a glimpse of each country - enough to make you want to come back. I now understand why world travelers keep traveling.

Having a political discussion group on board has created new friendships, as people who like to talk about the issues of the day identify each other. We also have figured out that we can get a digest of the New York Times WITH editorials, and CNN and BBC are back on the air. It isn’t the same CNN you watch - it is the global edition. I like being away but I don’t want to come back not knowing what happened in the political arena during my holiday.

From a distance it seems so ridiculous that our congress is voting on party lines when the stakes are so high. We also wonder why so many of Obama’s appointments have gone sour - maybe it would be better if he did bring in outsiders. And as for the financial mess, I am acutely aware out here of the international domino effect and of the feeling that the US is to blame for tipping the balance.

Time for frivolity, however, and last night I won a prize for my masquerade costume - Cleopatra! Even my table mates did not recognize me. [Thank you Marta.]

All who wander are not lost.