Saturday, February 28, 2009

PS on Rabaul - people who went on the other tour saw a totally different place - just goes to show that you shouldn’t draw conclusions from a brief visit!

Right now going by Guam and not too far from Kwajalein - both places that were just names to me before. It’s 80.9 degrees F at 11:45 pm! 8-ft waves means we’re rocking and rolling again. For Bill: 12 degrees 35.79N and 145 degrees 58.43 E. Earlier this evening we passed over the Mariana Trench, which is believed to be the deepest area of ocean anywhere in the world - 5.9 nautical miles deep.

On board for Sydney to Singapore segment: 598 Australians, 465 UK, 391 US, 84 Canadian, 57 German. 30 countries represented by passengers. total passengers: 1762.

Tomorrow Saipan, capital of the US Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Heading north again

Crossed the equator into the northern hemisphere about six hours ago - and I was just getting used to the tropics. Next port will be warm - Saipan - but then we head up to Japan and South Korea where it's winter.

Papua New Guinea

Finished reading Nicholas Shakespeare’s In Tasmania [Australia: Vintage, 2007]. Toward the end he describes an environmentalist named Bob Brown, whose first reaction to Tasmania was, “I am home.” Then he quotes the novelist James McQueen writing about preserving the Franklin River, “For me it is the epitome of all the lost forests, all the submerged lakes, all the tamed rivers, all the extinguished species. It is threatened by the same mindless beast that has eaten our past, is eating our present, and threatens to eat our future: that civil beast of mean ambitions and broken promises and hedged bets and tawdry profits.” Shakespeare says that local history says about Tasmania, “For Europeans, it [Tasmania] represents the literal end of the world: if you travel any further you are on your way home again.”

Today we were in Rabaul, Papua New Guinea. The Japanese fought off the Australians, took over the island and carved an intricate network of tunnels in the volcanic mountains here; then the island suffered intense Allied bombing. Fifty years later the place was bombed by the ash from two violent volcano eruptions. One is still spewing ash [see photos on http://gallery.me.com/herrlk].

Now, my personal notes about Rabaul and Papua New Guinea: friendly and active, in spite of the devastation of war and volcanoes. Not a lazy island. Lots of construction going on in Rabaul and Kopoko. As we drove out dusty roads by lush vegetation, folks waving and calling hello with smiles, tears came to my eyes. Why? Because we are so welcome here? Because the horror of war is mostly forgotten? Because people do not envy or judge us but live by their own beat? Because we are following in the footsteps of explorers without the hazards and dangers? Whatever, it is a privilege to be here and an intense immersion in nature, time, culture, and history.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

At sea between Australia and Papua New Guinea

In the Coral Sea between Australia and Papua New Guinea, bound for Rabaul. 16,282 miles from NY. It’s 6 pm here and 3 am in NY at the moment. It’s Tuesday for us, I don’t know what it is for you. Hopefully we’ll be able to catch the President’s State of the Union address, whenever it is.

On Thursday we'll be at Rabaul, a site of WW II interest and also a site with many active volcanos. I missed the talk on the geography today but can catch it later on TV.

We're learning a little about a lot and seeing just a tiny bit of the areas we visit. (Must guard against drawing conclusions.) Have enjoyed talking with local people, which so far has been easy, English being the dominant language up to this point. Must admit, however, that there is English, American, Australian, and New Zealand "english"! It's clear to me that we Americans have a lot to learn from others and it's time we stopped telling others how to live or expecting them to go along with our way. I'm humbled by much I hear and see.

...
What's a day at sea like? Today, as an example: 7:30 walk several times around the ship on deck 3, breakfast, journal or read (currently Nicholas Shakespeare’s In Tasmania), attend lectures (e.g., “Dangerous Marine Animals with Oceanographer & Meteorologist Prof. Denny Whitford), attend Rotary meeting (speaker the Maitre d’ of the dining room) and lunch, watch crew teams in crazy competition on deck, work out, relax, dinner (formal), a dance show. And that’s about 1/30th of the options available. Dress codes for dinner range from “elegant casual” to “semi formal” to “formal.” You can always skip the dining room and eat elsewhere on the ship or have a meal delivered to your stateroom if you want to.

Big thrill of the morning - watching flying fish. Then, this afternoon, mesmerized by graceful creatures gliding around the bow of the ship. I’m not enough of a birder to know whether they were gannets, boobies, or albatrosses. The bird book didn’t help either. Some were pure white with black trim, others grey or mottled in color but all were elegant in their ballet.

The fact that the sun is in the northern sky down here sometimes confuses my sense of direction, which is normally pretty good. Never quite sure where to look for sunrise and sunset - however, I have found it often enough to take way too many pictures! Yesterday there were some great cloud formations but I’ll only put one or two on the gallery!

Latitude: 13 degrees 19.40 S; Longitude: 149 degrees 55.09 E

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Cairns, Great Barrier Reef

43rd day! This world cruise is one of constant motion - pause in ports and then on to the next - seems like we just left Hawaii. Now anchored near Cairns, Australia, then northward tonight to WW II places like Rabaul, Saipan, and Nagasaki. Temperature will go from hot summer to winter. Today a rainforest for me - I can’t snorkel because of the Meuniere’s problem in my ears but I’ve learned a lot about the wonders of the Great Barrier Reef.

Still working out in the gym, by the way. “Gym” doesn’t do justice to the place, which is on deck 9 facing out over the bow of the ship. If you won’t work out here, you won’t work out anywhere! Helps to have a personal trainer, too, and Ariel (from South Africa) is the best! Have been gone so long I had to have a haircut too (Ivan from Serbia) - a really international crew taking good care of us.

Be posting new photos from Sydney and here tomorrow...

Held another political forum yesterday. With the influx of Australians joining us for the leg from Sydney to Singapore we had a lively discussion.

Friday, February 20, 2009

Sydney

Two days in Sydney - from the Opera to the Beach. See new photos at http://gallery.me.com/herrlk/100039. Enjoyed The Magic Flute at the iconic opera house in Sydney harbor, toured the city on a double decker bus, took time to see more animals and take the ferry to nearby Manly beach. Cruised out of the fantastic Sydney harbor to the accompaniment of Australian music (mostly drinking songs), a flotilla of small boats, police boats chasing smaller craft away, a helicopter, and lots of folks waving from the shore. Poor Captain Cook - he missed this spot!

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Tasmania

New photos - from Tasmania - now up on a new gallery album:
http://gallery.me.com/herrlk/100039

Today - at sea - will arrive in Sydney early tomorrow morning. Plan to explore on foot during the day and attend the Sydney Opera performance in the evening - The Magic Flute. We are staying in port overnight this time.

Tasmania

Something magic about Tasmania. Volcano defined hills. Sharply defined islands. Sheer cliffs of solid rock. One of the world’s deepest harbors. Ships of all kinds from historic sailing ships to the Queen Victoria side by side at Hobart. Prep place for those going to Antartica. Inland, rolling hills and farms, vineyards and horses. Clear, clean air. Tasmanian devils and wombats. Put it on the list of places to revisit. [About the same population as our Congressional District (PA-16).]

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Tasman Sea

notice that I gave the wrong photo address. . .. it should be http://gallery.me.com/herrlk/100017

What a trip! Have my little office set up in the Commodore Room with the same view the captain has - nothing but sea - the Tasman Sea. Swells of about 8 ft but otherwise a beautiful day. As far south as we get and about as far away from home. Still only 1/3 of way through my journey, however. Ahead tomorrow are koalas and Tasmanian devils. We get just a glimpse of each country - enough to make you want to come back. I now understand why world travelers keep traveling.

Having a political discussion group on board has created new friendships, as people who like to talk about the issues of the day identify each other. We also have figured out that we can get a digest of the New York Times WITH editorials, and CNN and BBC are back on the air. It isn’t the same CNN you watch - it is the global edition. I like being away but I don’t want to come back not knowing what happened in the political arena during my holiday.

From a distance it seems so ridiculous that our congress is voting on party lines when the stakes are so high. We also wonder why so many of Obama’s appointments have gone sour - maybe it would be better if he did bring in outsiders. And as for the financial mess, I am acutely aware out here of the international domino effect and of the feeling that the US is to blame for tipping the balance.

Time for frivolity, however, and last night I won a prize for my masquerade costume - Cleopatra! Even my table mates did not recognize me. [Thank you Marta.]

All who wander are not lost.

Friday, February 13, 2009

NEW ZEALAND

NEW ZEALAND IS NOW AT THE TOP OF THE LIST OF PLACES I WOULD LIKE TO COME BACK TO! North Island (Auckland) - wonderful visit to thermal area of Rotorua, Maori dance performance, and agrodome program about sheep and sheepdogs! South Island (Christchurch) a marvelous place. Photos from both and some ship photos being posted on http://gallery.me.com/herrlk/100017.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

early cruise photos

I'm posting the early cruise photos in a separate gallery - NYC in the snow through Guatemala volcanos and macadamia nuts. Please view them at
http://gallery.me.com/100031. Loading the photos is expensive so that's all you'll hear from me tonight except to say that we had a "political forum" again tonight and got over 30 people who are interested in the first 100 days of the Obama administration. We haven't had CNN since January so we're trying to keep each other informed when we can and keep the spirits high. Had the US, Ireland, Canada, UK, and Australia represented this time.

at sea on the coast of New Zealand

Left the Bay of Plenty and are sailing South along the coast of the northern island of New Zealand. About 12,300 nautical miles from home. It's only 65 degrees outside in a moderate gale which is like a full gale when you're walking on the deck of the moving ship. On the sea days I usually walk with the group that goes around the ship several times for a mile's walk. It's overcast and the waves are over 8 ft. We can see the mountainous coast of New Zealand to the west. Australians on board are concerned about the fires back home as we all are. They are not quite as prepared for this type event as are our Californians I suspect.

Pictures are posted from yesterday's trip to the Rotorua thermal area and the Agrodome. Ann, if you are reading this, check out the sheep!

Tonight's a formal night; I will take my camera along to get shots of the ship as Ali requested.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

photos

PS: if you had trouble getting to the photos try www.gallery.me.com/herrlk/10017; PSS: Fran and Beth - be sure to look at my comment after yours.

from Tonga en route to Auckland

To me it’s Feb 11th. We’re now at 32 degrees 40.61 S and 177 degrees 19.11 E. [To you it may be a different day.] We’re over 12,000 miles from New York.

One of my goals for this trip was to figure out what I wanted to do after I get home - I’ve made little progress on that. I have accomplished something surprising, however. From the first week, I’ve working out with a personal trainer on a regular basis. Those of you who know me know how unusual that is for me. Whatever my future I will be in better shape to face it. Darlene, I’ll be ready for bike rides next summer! Yonnie, I’m looking forward to golf. By the way, we drove past a golf course in Tonga - very flat. [New pictures will be posted today on my gallery. www.gallery.me.com/herrlk/10017]

Tomorrow we’ll be in Auckland, New Zealand. Already it’s cooler and less humid. Samoa and Tonga tested my tolerance for a hot climate! Those two nations are quite different, as it their geography. Samoa is mountainous, Tonga flat plantation land. Somoans buried their loved ones in the front yard; Tongans use highly decorated cemetaries. In both cases, however, the people I met were quite friendly, and the tour guides provided good information. Schools are important, especially on Tonga, and there are many church-run schools, primarily Methodist, Catholic, and Mormon. Other churches dot the landscape as well. There are few jobs however and not much economic development. Each of the islands here has a story to tell. One of our lecturers today covered the history of who has controlled what in terms of the islands of the South Pacific and how that has changed, especially with respect to WW II.

Occurs to me that for all their good intentions, foreigners meddled with the cultures over the past 200 years without planning for the consequences.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

29th day

Now 10,576 nautical miles from New York. . . in the southern hemisphere [15 degrees 49.76S and 172 degrees 52.23 W] We today pass the International Date Line, which for our present latitude actually lies at 172 30W and not 180 W as is mainly the case. This adjustment is made to avoid dividing certain island groups which lie astride the 180 Meridian, incuding Fiji, Tonga, and New Zealand. Tomorrow - Sunday - will not occur here and we go directly to Monday when we arrive at Tonga. It was 83 degrees F this morning at 6, so you can guess what it will be at noon!

Western Samoa a great place to visit - friendly and scenic. Apparently they get only one or two cruise ships a year at Apia, so our visit was indeed welcome. Highlight of my tour was visiting the home of Robert Louis Stevenson and hearing about his relationship with the Samoan people. I'm posting new pictures this morning - later today you can probably see them at http://gallery.me.com/herrlk/10017.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Crossing the Equator

February 5 - Now below the equator. Crossed it at 3 pm yesterday. Event marked by a ridiculous tradition. Enough said. We arrive in Apia (Samoa) at noon tomorrow - it was 81 degrees at 7 am today. Six hour time difference from PA, by the way - that will change in a major way when we cross the international date line on Sunday (we don’t have Sunday).

Did you know the Queen Victoria is 964.5 ft long and 106 ft wide? She has a capacity of 1980 guests. Right now there are 1827 (it changes as people get on and off at various ports). Currently there are 776 UK, 406 US, 195 Australia, 192 Germany, and 98 from Canada. All in all there are 35 nationalities among the guests.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

photos

New photos posted on http://gallery.me.com/herrlk/100017. ENJOY! We cross the equator today with appropriate festivities!

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

still at sea

Finished Defoe's Robinson Crusoe - thought that would be an appropriate read - a good story for adults - insights into life choices and consequences. Now have Conrad's Victory to read. Tomorrow we cross the equator, with appropriate ceremony. In the 80s today and partly cloudy (sorry folks back North). We do have 8 ft waves, however, so we rock and roll a bit. We're going by the Line Islands (Kingman, Palmyra, Christmas, etc) and the Marshalls (though they're a bit further west. We almost 9000 nautical miles from NY.

Monday, February 2, 2009

2/1/09: At sea now 8380 nautical miles from New York [17 degrees 38.72 N, 159 degrees 15.97 W]. Here it’s warm - 74 at 7 am and never boring. Our speed is about 20 knots - wonder how that compares with the WWII ships?

Yesterday’s tour of military sites on Oahu included the Arizona Memorial, Wheeler Field, Schofield Army Barracks, Ft. Shafner, the Punchbowl Memorial, and the Home of the Brave Museum - particularly interesting to me because of the Dear Coach book. Anyone who watched From Here to Eternity saw these places. Our guide showed us some scenes from that movie and others like Pearl Harbor that matched where we were. Few of the Dear Coach writers served on Hawaii but several probably passed through here. I know that Roy Herr and Phil Lowell were here; Althouse, Sauder, Horning, and others probably passed through.

We have some lectures on board about the Pacific wars - and I go to some of them. Other times I opt out for exercise or sitting in the sun. Or meeting people. had breakfast, for example, with a couple from England who are taking the segment from LA to Sydney and then flying home. We do have Rotary meetings every Monday too. I usually sit in the Commodore Room to write these blogs - it’s two floors above the bridge, so you can imagine the view; actually right now I’m seeing exactly what you’d see if you logged in to www.cunard.com and clicked on Queen Victoria, and then the live bridge cam. NOTHING BUT SEA. The sea is always in motion - somehow I expected more glassy calm “pacific” seas. They say the waves are 4.9 ft but from up here they don’t look that big. There are white caps scattered about and lots of clouds today. Around Hawaii the sea is miles deep I’m told. I know there’s lots of life down there but we don’t see it. No whales or dolphins, no birds around here - but I think you’d have to be watching all the time to see them if they were here - the sea around us is so immense. From this room I have about a 200 degree view. The earth must be round - either that or there’d be an immense waterfall all around us.

Four days at sea and then we will reach Apia. While we’re out here in the Pacific satellite TV service is poor so I really don’t know much about what’s going on at home. We do get a news sheet in the morning - I’ve noticed that it’s prepared in English, German, and probably other languages - with appropriately different news. Sunday one of my friends brought a New York Times on board so I did get to catch up a bit. I use internet mostly to post this blog and not to surf. Decided to spend my money on my personal trainer and get in shape. Yes, some of you may be surprised that I’m still doing that. I never thought I’d take a cruise to get in shape - most people do the opposite. I knew the trip would be a life-changer but this is not the change I would have predicted! I am motivated when I’m out by the pool - there are lots of cruise bodies out there, and I don’t mean skinny.